How to Decide the Best Length to Cut Men's & Boys' Hair

A general rule of thumb for straight or slightly wavy hair is the finer the hair, the shorter it would be cut and the coarser the hair, the longer you should leave it. This is because finer hair bends easier than coarse hair and need less length to bend and lie where it should. Coarser hair needs to be longer because it does not bend as easily and needs more weight (from length) to bend and lie in place.

A basic guideline would be -

• Fine Hair 1 - 2 inches


• Medium Hair 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 inches


• Coarse Hair 2 - 3 inches

This is just a general guide, though, and each specific haircut needs to be unique for a particular person's needs.

If you are not really sure about the texture of the hair you are cutting and want to know for certain that you will be cutting it the right length, do this simple test. Cut off one hair from the top of the head right at the scalp. Hold that hair between your thumb and y our pointer finger right at the "root" end. Hold it straight up. Cut little bits of length off of the end until the hair has just a slight bend at the end. (When it's too long, it will lie down, bending close to your fingers.) Once you find the optimal length, measure that strand of hair with a ruler.

Look closely at the way the hair grows at the top of the head. If your client's hair grows straight out of the scalp (usually only 1% of people have this), then cut his hair to the length that you measured the strand of hair to be. However, if your client's hair grows at a 45 degree angle from his scalp (which is much more common), you should subtract 1 inch from the measured hair strand length.

When you have a client that has his hair thinning on the top, cut it 1/2 to 3/4 inch shorter than what you calculated from your cutting test. Thinner hair lies flatter because it doesn't have much hair around it to support it. Thinner hair (up top) will have more fullness when you cut it shorter.

Deciding What Length to Cut Hair

A general rule that can apply to cutting men's or boys' hair is to cut off any unnecessary length and leave it long enough to lie in its place. This rule mainly applies to the hair on the top of the head where extra length can make it heavy looking with the extra bulk.

There are exceptions to this rule. Hairtype is a factor that determines length. Wavy, kinky, and curly hair types give you more options when choosing length and cover up haircutting slip ups too ;o) The shorter you cut the hair, the straighter it lies and the longer you leave it, the curlier it is.

Just slightly wavy or straight hair is less forgiving. If you cut it too short, it will stick straight up and if you leave it too long, it becomes floppy and doesn't hold its shape. With this hairtype, you tend to have more low cowlicks, double cowlicks, ducktail necklines, and cowlicks in the front hair line.

Since every head of hair has its own unique combination of hairgrain, hairtype, density, and texture, you need to take all these factors into account when deciding how long to cut the hair.