Cowlicks

When cutting hair, you will have to deal with cowlicks. You will see at least one cowlick on every head of hair you cut. Every one has at least one cowlick in the crown area of his/her head. This spot, the cowlick, is where the beginning of a person's hairgrowth pattern starts. The cowlick determines the pattern of the hairgrain for the rest of the head. It is like the axle on a bicycle wheel, with the hair around the cowlick being the spokes of the wheel. The axle determines the direction or motion of the wheel just like a cowlick determines which way the hair wants to lie.

Cowlicks aren't only in the crown area, they can also be in the front hairline as well as at the back in the nape of the neck. These cowlicks also have the hair growing out and away from them. This of course adds interest to the way the hair lies, how it must be cut and how it needs to be styled.

But does eveyone really have a cowlick? I'm sure you can think of many people who you would say don't have one. That is because certain hair lengths and hair types can camouflage a cowlick very easily. These are

• 
  Long Hair - When hair gets longer, it gets heavier. This causes it to bend. When the hair bends at the roots, it can cover the cowlick area with long, bent hairs. If the same hair is then cut a bit shorter, the weight of the hair is gone. This will allow the hair to lie the way it wants to and then you'll be able to see the cowlick.


• 
  Wavy and Curly Hair - This type of hair grows out of the head like coiled springs, whereas starighter hair lies closer to the head. Because curly and wavy hair grows out like springs, when you look at it, you mainly see the ends. However, because straighter hair lies closer to the head, you can see more of the hairshaft and therefore you can also see more of the cowlick and the hairgrain (the direction that the hair lies).

The wavier or curlier the hair that you cut, the shorter you have to cut it to see the cowlick. If you cut it to a 1 inch length, you'll probably see the cowlick, but if it is a half of an inch longer, it will camouflage the cowlick.

Watch for more information coming on cowlicks (how to deal with them, the right length to cut them, etc.).

Introduction

This blog is set up so that I can share what I have learnt with those of you who visit my site. I'll share information that will benefit home haircutters and and hair care professionals alike.

I'll start with very basic information on the roles of both your hands when giving a haircut.

If you are totally new to cutting hair, it can be difficult to get your hands in synch with what you want them to do. When giving a haircut, you need to use both hands. They both have different but important jobs to do. Since only 15% of people are left-handed, we will look at the jobs your hands do assuming you are right-handed (for sake of illustration). Your right hand is your cutting hand and your left hand is your holding hand. Your left hand is very important with your pinkie and ring fingers being your spacer fingers with your middle and pointer fingers being your holding fingers.

Jobs of Your Holding Hand
Your holding hand (for illustration, it's your left or less dominant hand) has 3 important jobs to do:
Holds the hair - Once your right hand combs the hair up away from the head, your left hand takes hold of that hair between your middle and pointer fingers.
Decides how much to cut - Your pinkie and ring fingers determine the spacing between the scalp and the cutting point. They decide how much hair needs to be cut off and act as a guide.
Holds your comb - Once your spacer fingers help you decide where to cut, you need to transfer your comb from your cutting hand to your holding hand. Without letting go of the hair in your holding/left hand, slide your scissors between your thumb and your pointer. Press your thumb against your hand to hold your comb steady.

Jobs of Your Cutting Hand
Your cutting hand (your right or dominant hand) has 2 jobs to do:
Combs up hair - You start off with wet, clean hair lying on the scalp. You need to comb up a section of hair so your holding hand can slip it between your 2 holding fingers.
Works the scissor - When the hair is held between your holding fingers and is measured using your spacing fingers, you are ready to transfer your comb to your holding hand and make the cut.

Even though your cutting hand makes the most difference visually, it is the work of the holding hand that makes all the difference. If you don't have your hair neatly lifted and spaced, you will end up with a messy and uneven haircut.

For directions for the basics on how to manipulate scissors correctly, see The Beginner's Guide to Cutting Hair chapter 5.